Only been wanting one of these for like five years now…

Salsa Mukluk gets a ride to the trailhead in my 4Runner

 

I first rode a fatbike in ’08 when my brother and I borrowed a couple Surly Pugsleys for some singletrack adventures in Theodore Wirth Park in Minneapolis. Last winter I borrowed and rode a different Pugsley as well as the new Salsa Mukluk from the local LBS, Bangtail Bikes.  A couple weeks ago I borrowed the latest version of the Mukluk for a six mile night ride on slushy, snowy singletrack.  From summer Forest Service road touring to beach riding to snowy singletrack these fatbikes are proving themselves as awesome… and I want one.

 

How to Build an Igloo


Photo © Mark Genito

 

Sleeping outside in winter is cold. On top of that it gets dark early and campers often find themselves with little to do other than build a fire and sit around it sipping whisky. Don’t get me wrong fires and a flask amongst friends is a wonderful way to spend an evening but staying active is a far, far better way to stay warm. Some people choose to hike by headlamp into the evening thereby maintaining their warmth. Another way is to spend the afternoon and first hours of darkness building a snow shelter. Not only will building it keep you warm but sleeping in it can bring even the most frigid of temperatures up to a tolerable level.

 

Recently two friends and I set out on skis and snowshoes a half day’s walk into the woods with the intent of finding a good spot to practice and learn how to build an igloo. I have been reading about this topic for a number of years both online and in a couple of books. My favorite snow shelter tutorial is in “Allen & Mike’s Really Cool Backcountry Ski Book”. I did exhaustive online research some years ago on this topic and was dissatisfied with the tutorials I found. Perhaps there are many quality write-ups igloo building. Regardless I hope this post will add to the knowledge base for others wishing to try building a shelter of this type.

 

How to Build and Igloo – A Photo and Descriptive Tutorial

 

The following tutorial is both photographic and descriptive in nature. The photos will be paired with a description as detailed as I feel is necessary to describe the necessary action. Please feel free to use the comments section at the end of the post to discuss my techniques, describe tips and tricks you may have, or to ask me and other readers questions.

 

Step One – Snowblock Quarry Site

 

An igloo is constructed from blocks of packed snow. In order to cut these blocks you must first layout and prepare a quarry from which to cut them. Mark out an area approximately two ski lengths by one ski length. Begin to walk back and forth, up and down, around and around, and generally all over this area. Jump up and down, beat on it with shovels, and mash the snow down and around as much as you can. Put on your skis or snowshoes and then walk all over it a bunch more. The area will begin to harden the longer you work on it. The amount of time this takes will be dependent on the quality of the snowpack. Sugary faceted snow will take the longest, and snow with higher water content will take less time.

 


Sam work-hardens an area of snow that will become the quarry from which to cut snow blocks.

 

Once you’re done work-hardening the snow you can move onto the next step as the block quarry will now require about one hour of time to simply set up. Leave it be, make a note of what time it is by your watch or the sun and then be patient.

 


The block quarry marked with ski poles and completely packed out.

 

Step Two – Site Selection

 

While your block quarry is setting up you can begin to find the specific spot that your igloo will be built. The ideal location will be close to your block quarry so that you don’t have to carry blocks too far. As you would do when picking any camping location take into consideration coverage from the elements, nearness to water, elevation in relation to adjacent landscape, et al. The footprint of a snowshelter of this nature can be sizeable so finding a place that is relatively level and large enough is ideal.

 


Put one ski pole in the center of your building site, use the other to mark out a radius by “etching” the snow with the pole basket.

 

Once the specific site of your igloo has been determined tamp it out by walking around on it a bit. It’s not necessary to work harden this area like you did with the quarry but hardening it out a bit will provide a solid base for laying block on. Planning the specific radius of the igloo is a crucial step that will determine the size of your igloo when all is said and done. We were planning to all sleep inside and my reading proved that a 130 centimeter radius would be sufficient for a two to three person shelter.

 

Step Three – Cutting Igloo Block

 


Using your shovel roughly prepare the front and top of the block quarry into smooth surfaces that will form the first row of cut block.

 


Sam cuts igloo blocks.

 

Now the patience and waiting is over and it’s time to really get to work. If you’ve work hardened your snow enough you can begin to saw blocks from your quarry. Size can vary but 60 cm x 13 cm x 50 cm makes a block of excellent strength that’s not too heavy to transport. Use measurements etched onto your snow saw or cut sticks to specific length to mark out each block before cutting it. Use precision and accuracy at this stage of the process because the blocks will create a far stronger and better looking shelter if they are sized precisely the same those next to it.

 

To cut the blocks first make your cuts along the sides and rear. Lastly, saw the bottom of the block. When the saw finishes the last few centimeters of the bottom cut the block will drop down ever so slightly. Place your saw blade behind the block and pull toward you slightly. The block will tip forward and fall into the waiting arms of the person on your team who’s job is to begin moving blocks to the building site.

 

Step Four – Laying Out the First Course of Blocks

 

The wall of your igloo will be one block in thickness. Each block must lean slightly inward so that as your build upward the wall closes on toward the center and ultimately closing completely in on itself. Do not take this notion lightly. If you don’t lean the wall inward enough your igloo could become too tall by the last courses for your to reach the upper blocks. Leaning it inward too much will of course not leave you much headroom so attempt to weigh these options against each other continually as your are building.

 

The first block that is placed requires a special cut (as does the very last which will be discussed later) but the rest will typically all be of the same size. Cut the first block into two pieces as shown in the photo below. This will form a ramp for the second course of blocks to rise upward onto and over the first course once it’s come full circle.

 


The ramp formed by the first block

 


Jon preparing to lay the last block of the first course.

 

Step Five – Continuing the Block Wall Upward

 


The upper courses

 

In the photo above note how the second course of blocks ramps upward onto the top of the first. Also note at the rear wall the inward lean of the blocks. Lastly, look to the background of the photo you can see the block quarry and Sam cutting blocks. Sam has a foam sleeping mat under his knees to stay warm and Jon is standing on one inside the igloo to keep his feet warm.

 

 

Sometimes the blocks lean into the previous one, set up nice and quick and the builder can simply move on. Other times they need to be held in place as the snow sinters together. It is often nice to have a second set of hands to help with this job as seen above where Mark and Jon are both holding a block in place.

 


A ski pole can act as a prop to hold blocks in place while the builder tends to other parts of the construction.

 

In the photo above the handle of a ski pole is being used but flipping it around and using the basket end is even better as it spreads the surface area out.

 

Step Six – Chinking

 

As the blocks are leaned one next to each other there will undoubtedly be gaps that appear here and there. The person hauling block from the quarry can have a shovel handy to use to throw light snow onto the gaps. Where larger holes appear small chunks of snow can be used as chinking material to fill them.

 


Note the slight gaps in between the blocks. These will tend to get larger as the wall progresses higher and the blocks lean inward more significantly

 

Step Seven – Cutting the Door

 

Once you’ve reached four or five courses of block high you will begin to have trouble passing snow blocks over the wall. At this time it will be safe to cut a door into the side for passing block to the builder who has been stuck inside and may also enjoy the chance to escape for a breather. This door will eventually become the entrance to the igloo but keep it small at this time to maintain the overall wall strength as long as possible.

 

Using your snow saw simply poke a hole in the wall of the igloo at the base and begin sawing in an upward arc to create a half-dome shaped hole. Place the door into the wall so as to put as little pressure on any one particular block that gets affected by it’s own weight not having anything holding it up from below. It may be helpful to cement the joints between all the blocks associated with the door so they are cemented together especially well before cutting. This will be especially important once the doorway is enlarged to fit a human body.

 

Step Eight – The Final Block

 

When the block wall finally reaches the apex of the igloo there will be a solitary hole left. Using your snow saw, cut a block to fit the last hole and either force it up and into place or drop it down onto the hole from above (assuming you are tall enough).

 


Jon contemplates the final puzzle piece.

 

Step Nine – The Entrance Tunnel

 

At some point in the build process the person originally designated to cutting snow blocks from the quarry will finish that task and while the builder (inside) and the block-carrier (now the outside builder) continue to place block the quarry-person can begin to work on the entrance tunnel.

 

The ideal location of the entrance to your igloo will start about 50 cm below the level of the sleeping platform and then step up and into the igloo to meet the sleeping platform. This elevation difference will act as a cold-sink and cold air will be less likely to enter the igloo and warm air inside will be less likely to exit.

 

Dig a trench in the snow outside the igloo up to where the small door is that was cut earlier. There will most likely still be block debris lying about near the quarry and also probably more packed snow available to cut block from. Using the debris block and more blocks that you cut build a tunnel that leads to the door. This tunnel will act as a wind block to the entrance.

 

To erect the tunnel either use a technique similar to the igloo walls wherein each side of the tunnel slopes inward to form a curved entrance. Otherwise simply build two vertical walls and then lay large blocks across the top to form a square entrance. Build this structure from the outside inward toward the igloo so that there is a gap between the tunnel and the igloo structure until the last possible minute. This will allow easier access for the outside builder to pass blocks to the inside builder. Keeping out of each other’s way is key to efficiency.

 


Sam works on the entrance tunnel. Note the clothing choice – waterproof clothing is essential to staying dry while building a snow shelter

 


The igloo as viewed down the tunnel. Note the slight slope upward and onto the sleeping area inside. Ideally this would step up significantly more but we were working with a low snowpack.

 

Step Ten – Admire your Work

 


Jon, Mark, Gordie Howe, and Sam

 


The finished project

 

Updating a Classic Piece of Gear

One liter hard-sided Nalgene bottle


Now that winter is upon us here in the northern hemisphere those of us who pursue outdoor activities in the cold often turn to a trusty, classic piece of gear for carrying water when the temperatures drop below freezing.  In summer I maintain that a Platypus soft-sided device is hard to beat for weight and durability but in winter the narrow mouth is hard to fill without getting your hands cold and wet and water tends to freeze easily when stored in it.  So in winter I return to my trusty one liter Nalgene bottle.  The bottle above is one of two Nalgene bottles I own, this one was purchased in 2001 and has lived with me in three states, seen countless trail miles, has been thrown, dropped, floated, used, and abused in activities ranging from use at school, work, trail maintenance, snowboarding, canoeing, hiking, and probably enough others that I can’t even remember to list.


The lexan material used in the bottle is extremely durable and provides a great surface for stickers to personalize it from all the other Nalgenes out there.  Notice in the photo above that I’ve put stickers nearly all the way around the bottle but I’ve intentionally left a gap running from top to bottom.  This allows you to still see how much fluid you have in the bottle and makes it easier to denote volume when filling.


The lid and lid-retaining strap are less durable on these bottles although still well-designed.  I managed to keep this bottle completely intact until a dog got hold of it in ’06 or ’07 and gnawed the little piece of plastic off that holds the cap on.  Amazingly I managed to not lose the lid and have always wanted to fix it which I did last week.  I drilled a couple holes into the remaining bits of the strap, ran a piece of coated wire through them, looped the wire and closed it off with some little bits of hardware.  Works like a charm.


Do you have a favorite Nalgene that you’ve held onto for all these years regardless of the bad name they seem to get in the ultralight press?


The Bangtail Divide


A short drive North of my fair burgh of Bozeman is a sub-range called the Bangtails. It has been heavily ravaged by logging over the decades and is home to a diverse crowd of users in/on logging trucks, motorbikes, snowmobiles, bicycles, foot, and ORV. Along the crest of this length of earth rising around 2,000′ above the valley floor is a gem of a piece of singletrack stretching twenty-six miles – – yes, that’s right – – twenty-six miles of single-track trail. It parallels a stretch of asphalt highway so a trail user can drive to the end, drop off their car, pedal 8.25 miles along the highway to the start and then begin the knee-busting and back-ache-causing climb up switchback after switchback to the crest.


Nothing but delight follows upon reaching the top of the Bangtail Divide however as the rider is treated to glorious views of the Bridger Range immediately to the West, the Crazies to the East, the Gallatins and Madisons to the South, and a glimpse of the Absaroka-Beartooth to the Southeast.


But the views are only the beginning. Although the trail is shared with motorcyclists and can from time to time be pockmarked with the damage caused by how much power can be put to a wheel by a 2 or 4-stroke engine the riding is delicious. Long, open, sloping meadows of pedal-free sections of absolutely flowy riding appear in glorious .25 and .5 mile sections. Short climbs are followed by long, long sections of wooded downhill with sharp but bermed switchbacks and bumps and rolls that just flow by underwheel as you get over the back wheel and send the front into the air, sailing freeform.


You cross one dirt road in two places during the ride atop the crest but it’s a mellow, undisturbing crossing. You may see a 4×4 pickup full of guys with beers out shooting guns but this is Montana. Give a wave and if they’re shooting close-by perhaps you can finally get a chance to shoot that .50 caliber handgun you saw in “Snatch”. Riding past Olsen Creek road you’ve got one more climb before the Coup de grâce that is Grassy Mountain.


Grassy Mountain is a destination ride in and of itself. Many a Bozemanite drives to the terminus of the Bangtail Divide to climb the trail in reverse only to turn around a few miles later to ride this wonderful piece of flowing downhill. After having ridden more than a marathon’s distance and probably feeling pretty tired there is something pretty smashing about throwing your seatpost to it’s lowest and hammering out a few cranks up to speed for five-plus miles of sweet, sweet downhill singletrack. Thickly wooded trees swoosh past you as you wheelie over roots and holes, whip around switchbacks and slice natural, bermed wall-rides. Finish it all by crossing a small wooded bridge, compress your brakes to their fullest, layout a skid in the parking lot, and go fish out the beers you stashed in the creek. You just pwned a classic piece of SW Montana singletrack.


Bangtail Divide Mountain Bike Ride

WD-40 IS NOT LUBE

WD-40 is NOT lube.


I was visiting the community bike shop, Free Cycles Missoula last weekend and while there I took a picture of a sticker they had posted next to their bicycle lube station. It read, “WD-40 is not lube”. For the cycle wrenching geeks out there this statement will give you a bit of a laugh. For those not into the joke do a bit of Googling so that you too can become a future bike geek.


I liked the sticker so when I got home I pointed my web browser to the link that was printed below the slogan and found out that the folks that printed the sticker, WorldsBestBikeStickers.com were clearly bike geeks and have a whole host of nifty stickers not only for your bicycle but also for your – *gasp* – car as well. Here are a few of their stickers that I like.


The Continental Divide Trail Alliance

I hike on trails a lot so I like to volunteer doing trail maintenance with local trail organizations to keep the trails I like in good shape. Perhaps I just want to keep people on the trail so I can enjoy the off-trail bits in solitude. Or perhaps I just like to give a little back. Where do you do volunteer trail work at?

Continental Divide Trail

Todd, chainsawing

Hikin'

Golite Utopia at sunrise

Wilderness

“The idea of wilderness needs no defense. It only needs more defenders.”
– Edward Abbey

Moving by Bike – 2011

In 2009 I had the idea to do an apartment move using only a bicycle. I started out with just a bike and a trailer and made some decent progress but knew that some “bigger guns” were necessary to really get the job done. I borrowed my buddy Mason’s bucket bike, a Madsen, as well as his DIY trailer. With that rig I was really able to get some hauling done and I successfully moved everything I owned under my own power.
 
The following year my lease was up again and when the time came to move I prepared my stuff carefully, boxing it all so that I could invite some good friends over (all whom have access to longtail cargo bikes) for a couple hauling trips. We moved the majority of my stuff in just two trips (there were around six people present).
 
Fast forward to 2011. My lease is up again and I’ve got other bike moves under my belt as well as a few bike moves helping other friends. My roomate opts to do his move by bike this year as well so we start boxing and e-mailing friends. He and I start hauling loads of his stuff on weekday mornings but I leave all of my stuff for one evening when I’ve invited a half dozen folks over to help.
 
There are still a few things left to move but the I’ve collected some video along the way and made a short film for bike nerds to enjoy.  If you’re reading this blog post through e-mail or an RSS reader be sure to click the link to see the video.
 

Food for an Overnighter


Overnight Backpacking Food Rations

I’ve been asked about doing a food-related post a number of times in the past and I’ve decided to make an initial foray into this with a post about overnight trips.  I will probably go into more in-depth food planning for longer trips in the future but for now here goes.

I’ve done backpacking trips as short as a 1/2 day out, spend a night, and a 1/2 day back to hikes as long as being out on the trail getting resupplies for a couple months.  When it all comes down to it however most of us are weekend warriors and we get a backpacking fix through a series of one or two night trips throughout the summer and maybe a week or two trip once every year or every two years.  A lot can be learned from the simple “24 hour” trip and the formula used to plan it can easily be multiplied by however many days one will be out on the trail.

The necessary planning that goes into these trips is extremely simple once you’ve done enough of them.  All that is needed is a simple gearlist to check off before venturing out and a small pantry of easy to grab food items.  That’s it.  Pile up your gear, grab some food, fill your water bottle, and hit the trail.

This past weekend three of us set out for an overnighter and I took a picture of the food I was carrying as an example of just how simple it is.  Everything pictured above are items I always have stocked in a box stored in an out of the way cabinet in my kitchen.  In the box are an assortment of bags of granola, packets of coffee, energy bars, chips, and dehydrated dinner choices.  Whatever I feel suits me for the weekend is what I grab.

Ultralight Backpacking Cookset

An hour or so is spent on a Thursday evening piling up my gear followed by 30 minutes or an hour with the pile of food and my scale weighing out what is needed.  I use Mike Clelland’s system for food choice which requires each backpacker bring 1.4 lb (.63 kg) of dry food per person per day.  This means that an overnighter will basically consist of a 1/2 day in, a night, and a 1/2 day out which all-in-all adds up to one full day, or 1.4 lbs of dry food.

My morning routine is almost always granola and coffee for this kind of trip.  On longer, big mile trips I may not heat water in the morning so coffee may wait ’til the late morning or be consumed cold but on a chill trip a relaxing cup of morning joe is pretty much the best way anyone can spend any time and that’s all I have to say about that.  Lunch and snacks for me are a combination of energy bars, chips, summer sausage, and cheese.  A nice balance of sweet food and savory foods is good because you don’t always know what mood you’ll be in and what kind of food you want.  If all you have is choco-minty-sugar-flavor energy bars and all you want to eat is salt-bomb-chip-nom-noms you might be let down.

Dinner is the most artistic and varying bit of my “formula”.  I vary in dinner foods from the super simple (ramen noodles covered in instant sausage gravy) to the gourmet (shrimp tettrazini cooked and dehydrated beforehand at home).  For easy to store pantry stuff I recommend instant mashed potatoes, ramen noodles, instant dry sauce packages, and whatever sort of dehydrated goods are available at your local grocer (corn chowder, split pea soup, dehydrated beans, et al).  Above is a combination of dehydrated corn chowder, beans, and assorted dried veggies, topped off with a beef bouillion cube.  I almost always carry a small plastic bottle full of olive oil (easy, dense, cheap calories) and a bottle of some sort of salt/pepper/Lowry’s/whatever type of seasoning.

The pictured quantity of food is tiny and fits into the bottom 1/3 of a 12.5×20 OPsak odor proof sack which is then put into a stuff sack.  The one photo’ed is a Hyperlite Mountain Gear cuben sack that is about as finely produced a stuff sack as exists on the market today.  The whole thing gets run into a tree on a 2.2mm piece of dyneema cord attached by a mini carabiner and will hang all nice and snug while I slumber away under my tarp a hundred meters away.

Happy nomming!

Sunset

A sunset over certain landscapes results in very powerful feelings. The sun, as it dips into and below the horizon moves a person – moves them right down to their soul. It represents a certain finality, but deep within there is a known rebirth that comes with the break of day.

I recently visited the Great Lakes region of the U.S. on a vacation visiting my family and my girlfriend’s family and had lots of opportunity to take stock in my life and my future. The photo above, taken by my girlfriend is very special as it represents that although the sun always sets it will too also always rise.